09-22-03 @ 3:27 am EDT

Well, yesterday we finally got to go to Tahquamenon Falls.

http://www.exploringthenorth.com/tahqua/tahqua.html
http://www.superiorsights.com/information/tahquamenonfalls/
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Aegean/2272/tahquam.html

I of course stayed up all night without sleep. We left around ten AM. Dad seemed to get lost at least twice, so we spent an inordinate amount of time driving around St. Ignace.

http://www.stignace.com/

We passed by the Ojibwa Museum, something I would like to see someday though it's probably unimpressive. I'm actually wondering if Mackinac Island split off from the St. Ignace area sometime in the ancient past, because the landscape formations of the two are so similar you'd think they were the same, except that St. Ignace is of course bigger and has automobiles.

St. Ignace looked nice with all its tourist shops, but the little ticket booths for the ferry services were either empty or the ticket sellers looked bored out of their minds. Who could blame them? What a lousy job.

We drove past Castle Rock in the distance...

http://www.stignace.com/attractions/castlerock/

I should tell you my embarrassing Castle Rock story someday, but I don't feel like it now; I have yet to even tell my Camp Daggett story, I just realized.

We also drove past the "world famous" Mystery Spot...

http://www.stignace.com/attractions/mysteryspot/

How did it get so world famous? I have been there and it was simply nothing to write home about. I'm guessing it got the "world famous" title from being featured in a Canadian magazine or something. *shrug* When in northern Michigan, do not fall for the hype and visit the Mystery Spot. Trust me, do something else instead.

We finally got on the right path and drove and drove and drove. I spent the entire ride looking at the trees passing by. A few times we passed "National Forest" signs--"National Forest Area," "National Forest Campground." I never saw the H word but I believe I know what national forest we were driving past. Dad sampled every oldies station there was. One of them played "Back On The Chain Gang," then that Tom Petty song where on regular pop radio he sings "Let's hit another joint," but in the real song (and on the oldies station) he's singing "Let's roll another joint"; the first song is an Eighties one and the second, I'm pretty sure it was from the Nineties. On an oldies station? Man. I'M beginning to feel old.

We got into Trout Lake...

http://www.exploringthenorth.com/troutlake/

...and got lost again when Dad discovered we were traveling into Chippewa County. He did an abrupt U-turn, spitting gravel, and we went back. Trout Lake had no visible trout, and hardly a lake. It was very small.

All along the way we kept spotting "Indian" tourist shops, Indian attractions, Indian curios. Though I'm tempted to look at such things, it made me peevish. Outside EVERY such shop, of course, you would see totem poles, big chiefs with their long feathered headdresses, and animal-hide tipis. When those totem poles looked suspiciously Inuit inspired to me, and in the northern Michigan area, you were far more likely to run across shorter feathered "crowns" or otterskin/beaverskin caps and domed birchbark wigwams than you were to run across eagle-feather war bonnets or animal-hide tipis. I guess accuracy counts for nothing when it's the tourist industry.

We started coming to signs announcing our entrance into Paradise.

http://www.paradisemichigan.org/
http://www.exploringthenorth.com/paradise/homepara.html

Paradise, too, was nothing to write home about. More driving. I'm not sure if we somehow got into Newberry (which is southeast of Paradise, I think) or if that was just later. Somewhere along the way I could have sworn I saw a sign which advertised something called the "Lost Lake," but it was only on the left side of the road and it disappeared quickly. The only other Lost Lake I know of is one that appeared in an old version of the Mackinac Island guidebook.

Finally signs for the Lower Falls began to appear and we pulled into a road. $4 for a parking permit. Dad drove up to the lady at the booth and said we must have taken a wrong turn, so we were allowed back out. We kept driving north.

Eventually we came to a sign for the Upper Falls. Again, $4 for a parking permit. So this time we pulled in and paid for one (Dad almost drove off without receiving it), stuck it in the window, and pulled into the parking lot.

There was a big brewery/pub here with a little gift shop in front.

http://www.superiorsights.com/tahqfallsbrew/
http://www.exploringthenorth.com/tahqbrew/hist.html

Out front was an open-space area with tables and such. Under an awning to the left a group of Asian tourists sat quietly singing in unison while one of their fellows videotaped them. I'm still puzzled about what was going on there--a religious ceremony or prayer?--some sort of thanking, or birthday, or holiday? I tried not to stare at them, though I was curious. I went to the bathroom in the brewery; it was about one o'clock. It had seemed to take longer but at least I managed to hold it in; my comfort limit is about one hour, and my maximum limit is about two.

Inside the brewery there were numerous stuffed animals adorning the walls. A giant moose head. An elk head, and what seemed to be numerous wolverines. I spotted what I know was one, between the elk and moose heads. The others, I'm not sure. They LOOKED like wolverines. I only noticed them on the way out later on, and it confused me. Despite our nickname as the Wolverine State, wolverines have not lived in Michigan in many years--some people debate whether they actually ever lived here at all. Where had all these stuffed ones come from and why were there so many of them, if they were in fact all wolverines? I started to feel a little angry then, because wolverines are not very common creatures. I have a sort of double standard here in that I detest the wearing of fur or skins, but for some reason I don't really mind seeing animal taxidermy on display; I often assume the rest of the animal was consumed, which is not usually the case with fur coats and skin bags and shoes. I can imagine somebody eating moose or elk, but not wolverine. So while I didn't mind seeing the giant deer heads, the wolverine pelts began to bother me.

*shrug* We got batteries and left. There was a path to the left of the concession area and we took this. Ma and Dad snarked a bit at each other, as usual. I tried not to let it get to me. Thankfully it didn't last. The last time they were here was when Ma was pregnant with my brother, back in '71. So of course the place had changed, for them.

We walked this path into the trees until a low roaring started up in the distance. My pace picked up; I've seen lots of pictures of the Upper Falls and they never really impressed me; they look small, and yellowish, and unimpressive. I expected a dinky little waterfall that might make an okay picture but other than that would be nothing much; I thought I'd enjoy the trees more, honestly. A gap appeared in the foliage to my left and I could see the river way, way below--I had no idea it was up so high. And ahead appeared Tahquamenon Falls.

It was not what I expected.

I took some pictures, but the trail continued down several levels until we came to a long stairway leading downward. I was reminded of the stairway to Fort Holmes on the island, only that is much longer, and goes UP, not down (unless you're on the way back). Dad and I descended this while Ma stayed behind to eat a sandwich. We came out onto a viewing platform right next to the falls themselves...and they were HUGE.

I had expected a little dinky trickly thing with ugly yellow water...this thing was massive, no Niagara, but still big to someone like me. Wide across, nearly all white, and roaring loud. The water glittered amber on the shelf just above it, shallow enough to walk across, and pennies and other coins littered the stone. Great striated shelves of rock lined both sides to form a giant bowl around the falls and the river disappeared into the distance on both sides. Trees were all around...it looked very nearly like a canyon or ravine. And this mist rose up into the air, spraying every which way at the change of the wind. I had to wipe the lens every time I took a picture, and hoped they would come out right. (There's a spot on the lens so I'm not sure.)

Luckily I discovered I'd had the camera set on the wrong focus, so I adjusted that and retook the pictures I'd already taken. I couldn't believe the sound of the thing. Not what I'd imagined at all.

As Dad and I went back up, we met Ma coming down; Dad continued up while I followed her to look at the falls again. I wondered aloud what was behind them; from one vantage point I could vaguely see more striated rock, but I had to wonder what it was like back there. I don't imagine there are any caves, but still...

We went back up, and rather than take the path back to the parking lot, we followed an old growth forest trail instead. There was a path down to a boardwalk that I wanted to take, but the steps were longer than the last one and my parents are impatient people. If we had had lots more time, I would have walked to the Lower Falls themselves--four miles. I can handle four miles, easily. (If there is access to bathrooms.)

Instead we took the little forest trail, which was fine, as I love trees. The old growth was beautiful. The trees were so tall and wide, and there were so many different kinds. There was the occasional sign to point out what things were. Earlier I had felt drawn to a large high-branched tree and had put my hand against its bark; Dad had announced it was a tamarack, "one of the hardest trees to cut--sparks fly off the blade when sawing one down." In the old growth forest I noticed a yellow birch--I had no idea they were so huge--I've always wondered how they made such big canoes out of them. I always thought birch were nothing more than poplars or aspen, wispy little trees. We then came across another sort of birch whose name escapes me now, and its bark was very unusual--rough and gray at the bottom, but like birchbark higher up. How odd. While Ma and Dad walked along ahead, occasionally stopping to look at signs, I lagged behind to look at all the trees and upturned root systems and such. As Dad well knows, the upturned root system of a tree can be HUGE.

We did not see any pine martens as the signs said to look out for, but that was rather expected. At one point it was so shaded it felt almost like walking through a tunnel...I was in heaven. I came across moss on a fallen tree and had to touch it. There were definite signs of woodpeckers, and we crossed chipmunks and could hear squirrels in the distance. Ferns were all over the place. I wondered how the place would look in autumn, all ablaze. *sigh*

We passed out of old growth into newer growth and all the trees near the path were as thin as sticks, yet very tall and leafy. Very strange looking, almost like they could not support their own branches yet somehow did. Very green. Then came more big trees toward the end of the trail. I reached out and touched some more of them. Near the end I had to step off the trail to examine an upturned root system...it was taller than I am, and wider than I am tall...if it were feasible one could probably make a home out of it. Another two trees had conjoined roots above ground and looked rather like they were twining their knuckles together.

I made sure to reach out and place my hand against one of the bigger trees near the end and told it to tell the rest of the trees I was glad I could have seen them. Mentally, of course. Every time I had touched one of the trees in the forest I'd told it hello. One, riddled by carved graffiti, received sympathy. I HATE it when people carve in trees.

I would have loved to see more of them, but it was time to go.

We went back to the concession area and checked out the other gift shop. I was tempted to get postcards, but didn't. You've seen my luck with postcards. *shrug* I saw a little silver owl charm but didn't get it...I was interested in another owl necklace, a little rainbowy-crystal thingie, but it didn't have a listed price. Go figure! Ma found out it was only $6 and got it for me...I still need to pay her back. I'll see if she can exchange something for a ten. Aside from that little necklace, I didn't buy anything all day. I glanced at the books, but they were mostly kiddie things, or stories of shipwrecks or recipes. Boring.

In the gift shop was a huge stuffed black bear...a fake one. His head was oversized, but he was very big.

http://www.exploringthenorth.com/camp33/gifts.html

In the back of the store was a similar wolf, howling. I ran my hand absently through its fur as I looked at the knickknacks. Mostly typical tourist stuff.

I went to the bathroom once more--caught Ma smoking twice--and we left. We drove back to the Lower Falls, waved at the lady we had driven past earlier, and went in. This was mainly a camping area with just one major viewing spot in sight. We went over to it and I took some shots of the Lower Falls. Contrary to what I had expected, it was not just one set of falls; it was two, with little islands between them, and they appeared more like rapids than falls. Still interesting, though. One could take a ferry out to one of the islands, but we did not do that. I walked a bit down a trail to get another view, but had to neglect the remainder of it. The batteries in the camera started dying but I didn't change them. We were about done anyway.

We checked out the gift shop here as well--not as impressive--and then turned to go. Again I told a few trees hello as I brushed my hand against them. On the way in I'd found a little bit of birch bark lying in the path and had put it in my pocket, even though the old sign said to "take nothing but pictures"...it's not like I tore it off the tree myself. It would have gotten trampled anyway...and it will probably just crumble into dust, now.

I tried out Dad's binoculars on the ride away from Tahquamenon Falls, and was impressed by how well they worked, even if all I could see was snatches of blurry trees.

I ate a sandwich Ma had gotten before we'd left, then dozed, not even bothering to read any of the book I had brought. I woke up just in time to catch the Mackinac Bridge again on the way back.

http://www.mackinacbridge.org/
http://www.mightymac.org/

I didn't mention it before, and I just realized it yesterday...but I'm continually impressed by the Mighty Mac. It's just a bridge, granted; despite what the local tourist info will tell you, it is NOT the world's longest suspension bridge--it's not even in the world's top five longest. I know this, because I recently saw a listing of the top five in National Geographic, and nowhere did it even mention the Mackinac Bridge. This peeved me too. Not that it isn't a record setter worldwide, but that the tourist info continues to misinform you that it is. Maybe it's America's longest suspension bridge--or the US's--or something. It IS an impressive bridge, record setter or not. Can't that be good enough? I wish the guidebooks would get their information straight. It doesn't have to set a record to be impressive, in my mind.

I had to crane my neck to see the giant cables and the two huge towers slowly pass over my head. We drove along metal grating, which produced an ominous humming, droning sound that seemed to come from the massive towers themselves. As if the bridge itself were talking. Trust me, the bridge does not seem impressive from a distance; you have to drive across it to truly appeciate its size. It is GIGANTIC. And it's beautiful, too.

I never realized until yesterday just how much I love that bridge, hokey tourist attraction or not. Mackinac Island is often written off by the locals as a hokey tourist attraction, but I love it too. What's so bad about a place even if it draws in tourists? Maybe it draws in tourists not because it's truly hokey (like the Mystery Spot, and even Castle Rock)...but rather because it's truly beautiful and worth seeing. In the case of the bridge and the island, I believe that's the case. With these two spots, tourists are right on for a change in coming from all over to see.

I also caught a brief glimpse of Fort Michilimackinac too, just as we drove off the bridge. I've never been there before. When my class went on a trip to it in elementary school, I had chicken pox that week.

http://www.fishweb.com/maps/cheboygan/mackinawcity/fort/
http://www.mackinacparks.com/michilimackinac/

Before I dozed off again I also realized that even though I've only stayed in three states in my entire life (the other two being Texas and Georgia), and have only set foot in a very few more (in airports in Tennessee, Ohio, and Louisiana), Michigan is still my favorite state. Sure, the weather is crappy nine days out of ten; and on that tenth day, there are too many insects to truly enjoy it; but I love it here anyway. I would not trade it for any other state, not even Hawaii, which Ma has always dreamed of visiting. Sure, visiting another state would be nice. But I would always want to come back here...where it's cold and wet and slushy and blizzardy and buggy and humid and muddy and messy, where the roads are bad and the first snowfall always comes in October and there is no real spring but rather an indefinite muddy period, but where there are also the most gorgeous forests and lakes and rivers and rocks and streams anywhere. I would take northern Michigan over Hawaii, over the Grand Canyon, over any of that in a heartbeat. Maybe because it's all I really know, but still, it's home.

I forgot to mention I caught a brief glance of Lake Superior. The shining Big Water itself. I was not much impressed by the glimpse I got of it--it could have been Lake Huron, for all I knew--but I reminded myself of pictures I've seen of the Pictured Rocks Lakeshore. I want to go THERE next year. I've heard lots of stories of Superior's temperament; it's a very fickle and dangerous lake, and there are reasons it gained the nickname "Big-Sea Water."

I wanted a better view of it or the Straits at one point, but it was blocked by trees. Briefly, I thought to myself that someone should clear out a stand so motorists could view the water. Then I gave myself a little mental smack upside the head and smiled. At least there WERE too many trees to properly see the water! You can't say that for a lot of places, anymore. :/

We arrived home not much later, greeted the cat, and settled back in. I have yet to look at my photos; some are likely blurry or water flecked, and some glary/overexposed from the sunlight. I hope at least a few turned out, though I won't be uploading them here; sorry. Ask for them by e-mail if you want to see any. I noticed that during the ride home, and immediately after getting back, I felt...refreshed somehow. I felt happier, more lively, and like coming in here and writing not just this entry, but a lot more on any other subject of interest. I felt like picking things up again.

Then I watched TV, napped a bit, and actually came on...and felt...withdrawn again. Not quite DEPRESSED, but rather apathetic, like typing in here is just not worth the trouble anymore. This is not a pity play by any means; it's just the reason I have not been writing much in Skew lately. I just get this feeling of, why is it worth typing anything anymore? Who really cares, aside from me? Nothing I type makes any difference or has any impact on anybody who might see it; my words aren't moving anybody, so why waste the time typing them all up?

I don't know what's motivated me to feel this way, but I have, lately. It was hard to start typing this entry, and hard to keep focus in it; I'm not sure if I succeeded. *shrug* I do not think I succeeded in making my point about how much I enjoyed what we did yesterday, how I really felt those trees understood me somehow when I tried talking to them. (I had an uncomfortable moment on the ride back when I stared out at the trees lined along the road...I really got this feeling they were all STARING BACK. o_o ) About how much I truly love this place even if I complain about it a lot. I wanted to be inspirational and probably ended up sounding way too meandering and such. That's the point, why I haven't felt much like writing in here. It's all babble anyway, and these longer entries do not help. I just feel like everything I type in here is mere air.

This has not been proofread. I hope whoever reads this enjoyed whatever was good of it, and at least skipped over whatever was bland. Tar...